Tsoelikane Falls are situated some 5 km from the old Lodge ( Chief Jonathan’s Lodge) in Sehlabathebe National Park, Lesotho. They are quite impressive, falling some 50 metres in to a large pool before flowing deeper into Lesotho. I hadn’t been there in years and felt that a return visit was well overdue.
We got together our old hiking group and left from Bushmans Nek in perfect weather - There had been a lot of rain in the previous couple of days and it was a case of boots off for the first couple of river crossings. We reached the top of Bushmans Nek Pass and it was here that we heard the constant sound of dogs barking. From our vantage point above the valley below we witnessed the sad sight of an exhausted Eland surrounded by at least 8 dogs. Further back we could see two poachers approaching. It was immensely frustrating knowing there was nothing we could do and that this is undoubtedly something that occurs frequently. It was reported to the Parks Board authorities and one can only hope that the powers that be will address this growing problem.
We continued on, but our hearts were heavy!
We arrived at our destination for the night and found a perfect camp spot above the Falls. We noticed that several sign boards had been erected in the area displaying information on the Falls and surrounding rock art sites. Clearly the Lesotho Parks authorities are on a drive to encourage tourism, but we nonetheless felt that it detracted a bit from the beauty and remoteness of the area.
The following day we headed back towards the old lodge in very strong winds. It is now empty and derelict and the buildings behind it are being used as a military base by the Lesotho Army. We spoke to the Lieutenant who was very friendly and happy for us to go into the lodge for old times sakes. I have many happy memories of weekends spent at the lodge in its heyday - warm comfortable beds, blazing fires and hot water! Pure luxury and to top it all we could hire mules and have all our heavy things taken up from the border post. Those were the days indeed and it is a huge tragedy that this iconic place is being allowed to fall into ruin. I have been to the ’new’ lodge which is another 5 kms further back and it does not have the same appeal, nor the amazing view of the Devils Knuckles. The hectic winds had forced some people that were camping nearby to take refuge in the lodge as their tents had been destroyed. They told us that they had driven past the ’new’ lodge only to find no-one there and it all locked up.
We spent some time in the amazing rock formations before the wind made things very unpleasant and we found a sheltered spot to while away the afternoon. Again there were sign boards everywhere. Fortunately the wind subsided in the late afternoon and we were able to put up our tents and explore the numerous tarns in the area.
Thick mist rolled in during the night and we walked back down to the border post in cool conditions. By the time we got to Cedrics Pool, it had all burnt off and the guys made use of the pool. A great couple of days back in the Berg with old friends!
