The early morning skies were awash with vivid hues of pink, orange and crimson on our drive up to Bushmans Nek and we chose to ignore the old adage ‘ red sky in morning , sailors warning…………’ Indeed on our departure, the sky had grown to a beautiful blue with the sun shining brightly and we were confident that we were in for amazing weather………………Aah – the best laid plans of hikers!
So blissfully unaware, a happy group of 8 left the carpark, bypassing the initial three river crossings by walking around the border post. After a short while on the path, Jon realised he had forgotten his glasses which necessitated a quick return to the carpark and back, completed in record time I must add! We made our way up a rather overgrown Bushmans Nek Pass and noticed that there were clouds starting to form over the escarpment – in fact, they were starting to look rather dark and threatening! It was on with raingear as it started to drizzle on and off – some of us looked more blimp like than others as can be seen from the photos. We pressed on and reached the top around 2.00pm. We were trying a different and new route to the Falls this time, one that would cut off a fair amount of distance. The old Lesotho border post is known as Jonathans Gate but has been abandoned for many years. However the old derelict buildings still remain and can be seen from quite far away. We had a good two kilometres to walk to get to the border post and it was quite eerie to hear our echoing voices amongst the ruins. We headed down a vague path down the valley and the drizzle became heavier, making our progress, already difficult through patches of swamp like muddy sections, even harder. Once we reached the main valley, we realised there was still a way to go and the day was getting late. We just hoped that there would be some dry ( as in not marshy) ground at the campsite and were relieved to find a decent area when we eventually arrived at 5.00pm. It was up with our tents, not the most fun job in steady rain, and we were all very relieved to be under dry cover, and getting our wet gear off. It is amazing how much the spirits rise when in dry clothes and enjoying a hot beverage!
The clouds disappeared during the night and Richard and I were up early to photograph the Falls and surrounds. With all the rain the waterfall was an impressive sight, cascading down into the pool below and it was well worth walking the distance to get to the far side. After the best of the light, we came back to have breakfast and pack up, noticing that there were those dark clouds again, building up over Lesotho……it would seem that we may have a repeat performance of the previous day. Some brave folk went down to the foot of the falls to literally test the waters and have a swim while we walked up the steep hill to have a look at the cave at the top and see the old sheep kraal immediately below. Once everyone was packed we started our walk to Tarn Cave hoping to see some of the rock formations en route. The first river crossing was accomplished without too much trouble, but little did we know that there would be several others as the stream meanders along the valley. So it was off again, on again with boots a few times with a lot of threats to just walk through boots and all. We needed to avoid the old Sehlabathebe lodge so had to go around the long way to the container which marks the border and then cut back again. After a hasty lunch under threatening skies we continued on our way and arrived mid afternoon. We had been to the cave some two weeks before and noted that it was rather damp, so felt that it would be better for us to tent on the area on top, and the others would then have a little more space. We only managed to put up our tent in time before it started raining in earnest for an hour or so. It stopped for a while and the mist came rolling up the valley which was rather magical and other worldly. Kerry bravely took a dip in the tarn to photograph the famous Sehlabathebe Lily “Aponogeton Ranunculiflorus” which only grows in this area at an altitude of 2600m. They look like little bits of popcorn floating on the water and it is a privelege to see these delicate little beauties - (thank you for the beautiful image Kerry)
We were tenting right in front of a tarn and had an orchestra of little frogs to entertain us whilst we had our supper. However, thereafter we had an absolute deluge of rain and we estimate it was in the vicinity of 70 – 100mm in the space of an hour and a half. Aside from one or two small leaks which did not really affect us, the tent remained dry which was a miracle. The ground on either side of us was a river of running water. Some of those in the cave did not fare as well! Karen and Monique had pitched their tents in the cave and were awoken by the rising waters that came from the usually small waterfall at the far end of the cave and had to move to a dryer spot. Karen was then woken again a little while later to find her headtorch flickering and shorting with the water lapping below her mattress! The cave floor was a small stream in places, something that I have never seen before.
After the drama of the night before, and now getting wise to this pattern, everyone was up early and packed and we headed down to the border post fairly early. To hasten us on our way, the skies above the Devils Knuckles were already a very dark shade of grey. The paths were mostly little streams that one had to negotiate and there was much slipping and sliding in the mud. We all did walk boots and all through the last little stream and I was amazed at just how strong the current was. It would have been extremely foolhardy to attempt to cross the main river as it had come up even more with the rain of the night before and indeed, we could see it was raining on the escarpment already. We all made it back just in time before the heavens opened again.
Despite the rain, this was a hike that will be remembered by all for some time to come!
Aponogeton Ranunculiflorus - Sehlabathebe waterlily
