It's always good to spend the New Year in the mountains, and this year was no exception. We were joined by Mark and Irene and the plan was to spend 5 days in this beautiful area and explore some new caves near Tsoelikane Falls.
KZN has had a huge amount of rainfall over the last month, and we watched the weather anxiously in the days leading up to the hike. It chopped and changed, and it seemed as if the weathermen were undecided themselves. The hike would also be a good tester for the upcoming 60+GT as we would be carrying 5 day’s worth of food
Day one – Bushmans Nek to Thomathu Cave
The Bushmans and Ngwangwane Rivers were flowing very strongly and the Ezemvelo officer was dubious about our attempting to cross them. After assuring him that we only needed to cross the first two rivers after going through the Border post, he seemed a bit happier, but still came along to ensure we made it. It was boots off for sure, and we all crossed safely although the water flow was strong. Mark got off to a bad start as he slipped and fell at the first river but managed to recover his sticks before they floated away. The second river was a lot easier and we made our way up the long ridge that leads to Thomathu cave. It’s hard to think that in a few short months, we will be retracing our steps on our first day of the Grand Traverse. We settled in and enjoyed the view, cloudy but no rain!
Day two – Thomathu Cave to rock formations via Goats Cave and the Knuckles Traverse
The sun rose over the mist the next morning making for mystical views and we were packed and on our way, early. We arrived at Goats Cave and took a new route – I have heard that there is a way from here around the front down to the path below the Knuckles but had never tried it. It was certainly not there when I first started hiking many years ago. We were surprised to find out how easy it was with many paths leading on to the Senotlong Plateau. I think these have been made by the local cattle over the last few years. From here it was not long before we were on the traverse path itself which was muddy but mostly clear and easy to follow. The day had warmed up although there were clouds building up. We wanted to put our tents up before a possible rain shower so we did not visit the Citadel or the Frikkadel ( now known by its official name ‘Sickle Moon Ridge' and pushed on to the rock formations. We put up our tents and had a variety of small tarns near by to choose in which to wash. Indeed this area is full of tarns, especially with all the rain of the past few weeks. We made our acquaintance again with the special Sehlabathebe Lily, a very unique plant that is on the critically endangered list and needs very specific conditions which are found at Sehlabathebe – it grows in sandstone rock pools at an altitude of 2400 – 3300m. Then it was time for coffee while taking in the magnificent views all around us – truly one of my most favourite places in the Berg!
Day three – Rock formations to Tsoelikane Cave via Chief Jonathans Lodge and Owl Cave
We awoke to an awe inspiring display in the early morning skies – totally magical! Today was an easier day and we did not have too far to walk. The intention was to stay in Owl Cave, which is in a valley on the other side of the lodge – this had come to my attention as it was a cave that the GT team of 2023 had stayed in. It looked huge in the photos and I was curious to see it. The Lodge has slipped further into a bad state of repair with the holes in the roof even larger than before. We have heard that there are plans afoot to repair and install new ablutions so that the campers have use of this – whether this will ever happen, remains to be seen but we are holding thumbs. As ever, I feel such sadness at this much loved venue falling into ruin over the years.
We climbed the long ridge behind the lodge before heading to the left to descend into a long narrow valley. Owl Cave was visible in a rock band on the right-hand side. It is a vast cave and would have had space for a large herd of sheep and cattle. We contemplated setting up here, but as it was still mid-morning we decided to push on further down the valley and take a look at the Tsoelikane Caves. The view would be better as the falls can be seen from the cave. On reaching the cave we found it to be very good with amazing views. It was only a little later that Mark discovered that there is another cave on the same level – this one was a lot larger with just as good a view. In fact, I think this cave is up there for the most spectacular views in the Berg and it was a wonderful spot to spend New Year in. We did have to go and fetch water from the river below which meant a bit of a slog back up the hill – but I think the pros outweighed the cons here! There is a lovely rock ledge to sit on in front of the cave wall, and we enjoyed sundowners here. We were somewhat disappointed that the heavy rain forecast for the afternoon and evening never materialised – it would have been lovely to be in a cozy cave and well protected!
Owl Cave
Owl Cave
Owl Cave
Owl Cave
Owl Cave
Owl Cave
Leaving Owl Cave
Tsoelikane Cave 1
Tsoelikane Cave 2
Tsoelikane Cave 2
View up to Tsoelikane Caves 1 and 2
Day four – Tsoelikane Cave to Tarns near the old border post
Sunrise on this first day of 2024 was indeed very special from such a viewpoint and Richard captured this moment beautifully! We packed up and crossed the river below before making our way around to see the Falls. I have not seen it so full of water and it was quite a spectacle. We then headed South and eventually joined a well worn path that comes from the Swartberg area and heads further into Lesotho. Further down we crossed a ridge and looked down on the area with the old border post and also many large tarns. One is quite close to the South African border with Lesotho here. The skies were looking very threatening and we managed to get up our tents in time before the rain came down – but not before Mark tried to go for a swim in the tarn – he was disappointed though as it was very shallow! The rain continued for the remainder of the afternoon and evening – I guess our luck had to run out some time!
Day five – Tarns back to Bushmans Nek
We woke to thick mist and drizzle and resigned ourselves to packing up in the wet. By the time we started walking though, it had stopped raining and we made our way up to the path towards Bushmans Nek pass in mist. By the time we had arrived at the bottom of the pass, the sun was half out and it was getting warmer. I don’t think I have ever seen so much water everywhere and our boots became heavier and heavier with all the extra mud we were carrying. We reached the small stream at the bottom of the pass to discover that it was not so small! It was boots off and then a case of negotiating the powerfully flowing water very carefully. The current was very strong and one slip and you would be washed down the river! I am happy to report that Mark crossed this one like a pro!
Soon we were back at the cars – a thoroughly enjoyable time spent in the company of good friends and the very best way I know to see a New Year in!
