Easter which usually falls between March and April is traditionally the best time of year in which to hike – the days are crisp and sunny and the prelude to the coming Winter. For the last couple of years however, we have experienced rain and cold and we wondered what was in store for us this Easter.
Our plan was to spend a few days in the Sehlabathebe National Park, visiting our old favourite, Tsoelikane Falls and also the Frikkadel and Citadel which were new to a few people on the hike. Although the day was beautifully sunny, things did not start off well for me when I had problems going through the SA passport control at Bushmans Nek. Despite passing through here without hassles countless times over the last 22 years, it appears the rules have now changed. After a bit of rather fruitless debate with an officer who would not budge, we made a plan and the hike was on! The next setback came shortly afterwards when James had to bail as he was feeling very ill. Dave waited at the border post with him while the rest of us went on. Its about 14km to Tsoelikane Falls and we made our way up Bushmans Pass under sunny skies, stopping for lunch about half way. I have always found this pass to be a bit of a slog as it is a long and constant climb. It was a relief to get to the top and from here it was mostly downhill past the old abandoned border post and through to the Falls. There is a lovely tent site here and after setting up our tents we enjoyed the remainder of the afternoon whilst Mark and Shannon went for a swim in the icy pool below the falls. It has to be said that no one else was as enthusiastic! Dave arrived a little later and we settled in for the night.
We had a leisurely start the next morning and were enjoying our coffee in the sun whilst diehards Mark and Shannon opted again for a ‘wake me up quick’ dip in the pool………..We had a steep climb out on to the ridge above the camp site which soon dispelled any remnants of laziness and were rewarded with beautiful views all along the ridge. The weather continued to look promising as we walked toward the old Lodge. This is Chief Jonathan’s old hunting lodge, and we have spent many happy times here over the years. The lodge lies under the imposing bulk of the three Devils Knuckles which can be seen for miles around. Unfortunately it has been allowed to fall into a state of disrepair and it was sad to see the holes in the roof and empty rooms. Our last stop for the day was at the ‘Frikkadel’ – a ridge that is home to magical tarns and rock formations. We call it by this name to differentiate it from another ridge further along that is known as the Citadel. There is some debate over which one is the ‘real’ Citadel. Mirror Tarn is a beautiful tarn that reflects the Knuckles perfectly and we set up our tents nearby. We enjoyed a relaxing afternoon exploring the area. It rained later that evening followed by very strong , gusting winds- we were quite relieved that our tents survived the onslaught!
The following day we walked below the Knuckles to the Citadel and had the whole afternoon in which to chill and enjoy our surroundings. We discovered Citadel Cave which is below a rock band to the East and saw that it would be a suitable cave for about 8 people. Later that afternoon, dark clouds threatened and we had a huge downpour. It cleared by the following morning however and we walked back to the border post under cool and cloudy skies.
So it seems as if the April weather jinx was avoided – for this Easter, anyway!
(Thanks to Stephan for the use of his images)
