We were up early again for breakfast at the hotel and then we were packed and ready for our drive to Lee’s Ferry where our motorised pontoon and crew were awaiting us. During our journey we got to know our fellow passengers a bit more and we really had a lovely group. Mostly Americans from all over the US and a Canadian couple. We were dubbed ‘Team South Africa’!
We were doing a 4 day trip in the Canyon and were starting at River Mile 1, Lee’s Ferry and finishing at River Mile 88, ( 142kms) Phantom Ranch. So were in effect doing a third of the Colorado river length which in totality is 277miles ( 446kms). We met our crew of three, Wil, the Captain, a lanky young man with very melancholy eyes, very chilled and quietly spoken, JJ - an absolute bubbly character, dread -locked and who told her stories of the river with great passion and vigour, and Shonee, an American Indian, quiet, calm and unflappable. Our boat was a motorised pontoon that was made to flex over the rapids we would be going through. We sat towards the stern of the boat and the braver souls who would face the rapids first sat in the bow. No matter where you sat thought, you were guaranteed to get thoroughly soaked and so it proved to be! So it was with great excitement that we cast off and started our journey southwards under a blazing hot sky. I was immediately mesmerised by the beautiful jade green colour of the Colorado, apparently because the dam upstream traps most of the sediment, and also the fact that it is fast flowing. It is very cold, some 9 - 15 degrees C and this is because the water that is released upstream from the Glen Canyon dam, is from the bottom of the dam wall. I found this amazing when you consider the dry and arid environment it flows through. We hit our first rapid amidst much screams and shouts, and yes, we did get very wet! The walls grew steeper as we approached the Marble Canyon section and we passed under the Navajo road bridge which apparently has seen a suicide or two. We were kept entertained all the way by JJ’s river stories, which she relayed with much gusto - she should have been on the stage! We stopped for lunch and jumped out on to a sandy beach. The crew had the trestle tables and lunch out in a jiffy and we were treated to delicious wraps with fresh salads and sauces, crisps and juice. We had been told that all ablutions ( number ones) were to be carried out in the river while the other would be catered for at our overnight stops. The latter was set up by the crew and was called ’The Duke' - it was an ammo can complete with toilet seat and situated in an out of the way area, always with a magnificent view. The cue as to whether it was ‘available’ was whether the toilet paper was present at the ‘Duke’ signpost. After we finished our lunch, Kirsty and I had to go to the river and take care of our ‘ number ones’ - the shock of the cold water was immediate and despite my initial worries ( how was I going to do this with my one piece swimsuit ? ) in the end we just went through our clothes! Too much information perhaps !! I was also surprised that this was sanctioned by their National Parks - they say the water is fast flowing and its the best method!
During the afternoon, we stopped to do a hike up a side Canyon. We were instructed to immerse ourselves in the river before we left as it would be very hot. Good thinking as we were bone dry within half an hour. We hiked up to a beautiful green pool which we had to wade through and then scramble rather awkwardly up the rock to the next rock plateau. It was fascinating to see the rock formations and ‘waves 'in this gully. By the time we got back to the boat we needed another dip in the river. Our overnight stop was at a magnificent ‘beach’ of fine white sand. While we selected our sleeping area the crew was hard at work taking off all the equipment that was needed for our meals. We set up a chain to assist in getting this done quickly. As it was so hot, tents would not be a good idea, and despite my misgivings ( I had a fear of scorpions scuttling around at night) we set our mattresses down on the sand with the thought of going to sleep under the stars. Now this has always been a dream of mine and one that has, not up to now, happened in the Drakensberg, We had a get together with our team and put our chairs in a circle and enjoyed a sundowner with an amazing view - it felt surreal and I had to stop and remind myself where I actually was, and this was my dream! I consider myself so fortunate to have experienced this. Dinner was a tasty tomato beef ragu and spaghetti with fresh salad and the most delicious garlic bread. Before this we had cheese and biscuits - oh yes, and there was dessert - chocolate cheesecake I think? Canyoneers certainly know how to look after their clients. We were pretty tired early on, so to bed. Kirsty and I took a quick dip in the Colorado and had a wash with environmentally friendly soap - then sleep time. The mattresses were very comfortable and I was determined to stay awake and look at the stars above. Alas it was not long and I was in dreamland!
